On my second powermeter buy, the FSA Powerbox, I also found I really did not want to be tied to a wheelset anymore, cause that's something I change out a bit. or climbing a mountian outside and have to pedal continuously in an environment where the temperature might change, this is taken into account. In any case, when I was purchasing a powermeter I had a couple of things I wanted: Dual Sided (although I don't care about L/R power, I want both legs, not one doubled for accuracy sake), Auto Zero Offset (means it does the "calibrate" you would otherwise have to manually do literally every time you coast for a couple of seconds), and temperature compensation so if I'm using trainerroad, zwift, etc. but it finally works! They both blamed Garmin somehow, if you were curious. However, this didn't fix it, I then needed to factory reset it through the app. after working with two different helpdesks, based internationally, for about a week and a half through emails, I was finally able to connect with the app and update the firmware. It took awhile to fix this one, because FSA said I needed a firmware update but didn't support the power2max app that you had to do it with, power2max said they could help with the app but didn't support the FSA powerbox. Instead of reading 400 watts on a climb it'd read around 30, instead of reading 200 watts when just riding around, it would read around 14, but at least it was consistent. The actual battery installation is super quick and easy, the only problem was my power meter readings were suddenly incredibly off. For this powermeter everything was hunky-dory until I needed to put in a new battery. I had the LBS install this, along with putting the rest of the bike together, it is one of the heaviest cranksets you can buy, but also just about the cheapest dual sided crankset at around $600 (In my mind, I thought of it more around $400 because I could deduct the price of the chainrings, crankset, etc. Since SRAM bought Saris I have no idea if the process would still be this smooth, but that's how it was then.įSA Powerbox Alloy: When I built up my new bike I wanted a powermeter that would not tie me to a particular wheelset, was dual-sided, performed automatic zero offsets, and had temperature compensation, so I arrived at the FSA Powerbox Alloy. I ended up driving down to Saris, handing them the wheel (I live about an hour away from Madison and wanted to avoid shipping costs) and asking for a fix, they fixed it perfectly and sent it back a few days later completely free of charge. This was unfortunate when it was time to replace it, I could not get to the battery no matter how hard I tried (and try I did.). In order to make it waterproof, I had to add some guerilla glue around it, which essentially sealed in the battery. This power meter is not immune to damage, I crashed twice that year, on a race when I had to brake very hard I went over my handlebars, my bike and I were relatively OK but I managed to shear off part of the cap to the end of the powermeter. The CR2032 Battery seems to only last around 200 hours and is generally a pain to replace (having to use a special tool it comes with which you must be very careful not to lose). It works well, highly accurate, auto zeros, gives cadence and speed, although I always tend to wonder about the lost watt or two because it's so far down the drivetrain. Powertap G3: I bought this built into a DT Swiss wheel from powermeter city for $550 in the early fall of 2018. and having support is very appreciated, following are the two power meters and my experience: I currently have two bikes, each with a separate power meter, first I will say, I would never buy a power meter used, these things tend to fail.
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